- If your pet is nervous with handling, you can work to desensitize them to the different positions required for various treatments.
- The goal for desensitization is to create a calm, comfortable association with the situation that has been causing anxiety. We do this by creating a positive association with the process– in this case the end goal is a dog that is excited to be handled because that means they get the amazing treats! By allowing them to be released, you are teaching them consent to the handling. When they are cooperative, they get the tasty treat; when they’re uncomfortable they can step away for a break.
- It’s helpful to announce to your pet what body part you will be handling or what you will be doing. For instance, if you need to pick up a foot say “Paw” if you need to look in an ear say “Ear.” If you are putting them on their side say “Side.” With enough repetition your pet will learn what you are going to do. This helps with fear of the unknown and comforts your pet through the process.
- *The average dog vocabulary is 150-200 words, the same as a toddler!
- Only use extra tasty treats for this! Your pet should go bananas for these treats! Do not give these tasty treats at other times.
- Save them for teaching that the scary thing = delicious treats!
- Desensitization is a slow process. Imagine conquering your fear of flying! It doesn’t happen overnight, but is worth the effort!
- Consider all the aspects of the procedure. You may need to desensitize your dog in steps. For instance, if you are desensitizing your dog to nail trims, you may need to first work on handling their leg, then their feet, then parting the fur, then the individual toes, and finally handling the toe nail.
- Then, you may need to start over when you introduce the nail clipper. Some dogs already have a negative association with the nail clipper. These dogs may need to be near the clippers at meal time, slowly inching closer with each meal before you can attempt to touch them with the clipper.
- Once you’re at the point where you can touch them with the clipper, don’t start with the nail. Instead, start further up at the leg and work down to the nail as you did with handling the paw originally.
- The clipper also makes a sound! Practice clipping dry noodles so your dog can become comfortable with the sound.
- Always give lots of amazing treats for cooperating! Remember, they are working through their fear!
- By taking your desired behavior and breaking it down you can work towards a dog that is comfortable and cooperative. Get creative! If your dog reacts poorly to vaccines, use a syringe (no needle) and practice tenting the skin and “poking” your dog while giving tasty treats! (See Desensitizing your Dog to Vet Visits handout for more details). If your dog is afraid of the hair dryer, turn it on across the room at meal times. Gradually move it closer as your pet becomes more comfortable. Consider getting a “Snood” to cover their ears and help diminish the sound.
- Utilize tools like Licky Mats. Smearing peanut butter or canned cat food on a silicone mat can keep them busy and free up your hands. If they step away from you and your handling, they are also stepping away from the treat.
- With desensitizing, we want to keep our pet comfortable. If your pet is not taking treats from you, they are above their anxiety threshold. Take a step back in training. It’s a gradual process that can take weeks or months.
Step-by-Step Example:
- First say what you are going to do: “Paw””
- Then, touch their shoulder.
- Begin feeding super tasty treats.
- Slide your hand down their leg while continuing to feed tasty treats.
- If they pull away, stop touching them and stop feeding treats. Wait for your dog to step back toward you. Then resume the previous steps, from step 1.
- Slowly work up to touching the shoulder, then move down to the leg, paw, toe, and nail
- Once your pet is comfortable with you handling the nail then introduce the clippers in the same fashion, starting at the shoulder.
Your pet will learn that cooperating with the touch means getting the tasty treat and stepping away stops the treats. They will also learn they can step away when it becomes too much for them. This helps build their confidence so that they are not just tolerating the procedure, but comfortable and even enjoying it!
- You can use a designated yoga mat for handling. This gives your pet a non-slip surface and a visual cue indicating that you will be handling them. It’s also a clear boundary- if they step off the mat the handling stops (but so do the treats!). Only take this mat out when training. Feel free to bring it with to vet appointments!
- In addition to the yoga mat, which shows where they should stand, you can use a smaller item, like a coaster or a lid to teach your dog a chin rest or target with their paw. Use two different items so you don’t confuse your dog.
To Train a Chin Rest-
- Place the target on the ground in front of your dog. When your dog sniffs it, mark and treat your dog. At first mark and treat your dog each time they sniff it. You may need to pick it up and set it back down to catch their attention between repetitions.
- Once they are eagerly touching their nose to the target, pause before marking and giving the treat.
- Introduce a cue word before offering the target, like “Chin”
- Gradually build up duration between when they place their nose on the target and when they get a treat. The dog can stand or lay down during this exercise.
- After you’ve established the chin rest, you can place the target on an elevated surface so your dog can comfortably stand or sit with their head resting on the target.
- You can use a chin rest the same way you use the mat. For instance, you can practice giving your dog eye drops. If they pull away stop, if they stay in place, give lots of treats!
You can train a paw target in a similar fashion- mark and treat when the desired paw touches the target. You can use a treat to lure your dog up onto the target.
